Wrestling with the sun and its filters is an unending struggle, especially for those living in tropical climates.
For years, human skin adapted to increasing temperatures and ultraviolet radiation. But then, the invention of sunscreens turned the entire story upside down.
What is the purpose of sunscreen?
Sunscreens protect the skin from ultraviolet (UV) radiation, which can lead to:
- Sunburn
- Premature skin ageing (photoaging)
- Hyperpigmentation and melasma
- DNA damage causing skin cancers
- Worsening of photosensitive conditions such as polymorphic light eruption (PMLE)
What is UV radiation?
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a part of sunlight that can damage our skin.
There are two main types of UV rays:
UVA (320–400 nm): Penetrates deeper into the skin. It is responsible for premature ageing, pigmentation, and also contributes to skin cancer.
UVB (290–320 nm): Mainly affects the outer layers of the skin, causing sunburn. It also plays a major role in the development of skin cancer.
How are sunscreens broadly classified?
- Chemical sunscreens
- Mineral sunscreens
Chemical sunscreens contain organic UV filters such as avobenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, homosalate, octocrylene, Uvinul A Plus, Uvinul T150, Tinosorb S, and Tinosorb M.
Earlier, they believed these work by absorbing UV radiation and releasing it as heat before it could damage the skin. However, newer research suggests that some modern UV filters also scatter and reflect small amounts of UV radiation.
Advantages of chemical sunscreens:
- Lightweight texture
- Invisible on darker skin
- Easy to spread with better cosmetic elegance
- Suitable under makeup
Disadvantages:
- May sting sensitive eyes
- Some people may experience irritation or allergies
- Need about 15–20 minutes after application before providing full protection
Mineral sunscreens contain inorganic particles such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
Initially, they were thought to simply reflect UV rays like tiny mirror particles. However, recent studies show that they primarily absorb UV radiation while also scattering and reflecting a small portion of it.
Advantages:
- Less likely to cause irritation, making them suitable for sensitive skin
- Zinc oxide provides excellent UVA protection
- Often preferred for conditions such as eczema and rosacea
- Protection begins immediately after application
Disadvantages:
- Can leave a white cast
- Can be difficult to blend
- May feel thicker and heavier on the skin
There is another category known as hybrid sunscreens, which combine both chemical and mineral UV filters. They are formulated to provide broad-spectrum protection and are becoming increasingly popular.
Ultimately, the type of sunscreen we choose depends on our skin condition, individual concerns, and personal preferences.
So, the next time you’re buying a sunscreen, what would you choose—a mineral sunscreen or a chemical sunscreen?
MBH/PS